This is a reprint of an article that first appeared inThe Gulf Coast Camelian, Spring 1997
Planting and Camellia Care In St. Tammany Parish, LA
By: Bob Stroud
PLANTING AND CARE OF CAMELLIAS IN ST. TAMMANY PARISH By: Bob Stroud
Site: Most camellias grow and produce better flowers in partial shade. Plants in a northern or western exposure, or otherwise protected from intense winter morning sun, will usually stand more cold weather than those in an eastern or southern exposure. Choose a planting site with well-drained soil. Do not plant where shade trees with shallow root systems will compete with camellias for nutrients and water. If planting in areas with pine trees, make sure beds are located between trees and not close up near the tree. If an area is not high and dry, don't despair. Most areas can be built up to accommodate camellias if you are willing to do the work.
Soil Preparation: Camellias will grow in most well drained acid soils. A soil pH of 5.0 to 6.0 is best. Have a soil test made before planting; get instructions and supplies from the Parish Agent at the Agricultural Extension Service in Covington. The test can be made at several soil testing places throughout St. Tammany. The test will tell you what is needed to bring the soil to the desired pH and fertility level. Practically all soils need additional humus or organic matter before planting. About 4 to 6 inches of peat moss, leaf mold, cow manure or sawdust worked 12 to 18 inches into the soil improves it greatly. The addition of ground pine bark or rice hulls or both also helps. A good rule of thumb is when you think that you have too much organic matter in your bed, double it. I have found that you just cannot have too much organic matter. If you think that the soil fertility is low, add a complete fertilizer such as 8-8-8 or 13-13-13 into the soil. Apply the fertilizer at a rate of 3 pounds per 100 square feet of area. If you feel that the fertility level is high, apply 1 pound of 16-8-8 or 12-6-6 per 100 square feet. Remember that the organic matter that you have used above will not start to break down for at least six months. I usually add an organic fertilizer such as cotton seed meal at a rate of 20 pounds per 100 square feet and cut back to about 1/2 of the above referenced commercial fertilizer.
Bed Preparation: Make sure that your bed is elevated at least 8 inches above the mean level of the area you are planting in. If you are making a bed, make sure that you add enough filler to raise the bed the height of two landscape timbers. If you are planting a plant alone in the landscape, add about 2 wheel-barrow loads of additional filler to raise the spot 8 inches above grade. Remember that over time, the plant will sink. When it reaches its compacted level, the plant should still be three or four inches above grade level.
Planting: Camellias may be set any month of the year if they are properly planted, watered and cared for. However, late fall through early spring is considered the best time for transplanting them in St. Tammany Parish. There is adequate moisture during this period, and water is an absolute necessity in transplanting. These periods are also best because the plant is dormant or is approaching dormancy. Dormancy means that the above ground part of the plant is not growing.
The root system continues to develop during dormancy which allows the plant to become well established in the soil. The newly developed roots will then provide enough moisture and nutrients for plant to start growth when spring arrives. Space camellias according to their growth habits: some varieties spread while others grow upright. Allow a minimum of 5 feet between plants and preferably more. When preparing the soil for planting, working up entire beds or areas would eliminate the need for large individual holes. If you plan to plant only one plant and a hole is needed, the size of the hole or plant site should be determined by the size of the ball of soil or root system, size of container or the spread of the roots on a bare-rooted plant. Many plants do not grow properly because they are planted in holes that are too small. Many plants do poorly because they are planted too deep. Most planting instructions tells us to make sure that the hole is at least 12 inches greater than the diameter of the root system. I find that this does not work well in our area. I spade up an area that is 3 to 4 times larger than the root ball. I then add about 2 to 3 wheelbarrow loads of organic matter. Mix all of this very well and leave a hill about 12 inches high in the center. I then plant the plant on top of the ground in the mound of mixed organic matter and dirt and add about 2 gallons of plant starter with Vitamin B-I added. I do not pack the dirt tightly around the plant. I allow it to settle over time.
I realize that this differs considerably from everything that you have read in most of the literature. I have found that this method works best for South Louisiana. It probably works as well for the entire coastal area along the Gulf.
Watering: There is no set rule for watering: however, the soil should be wet to a depth of 14 to 18 inches with a hose, soil soaker (porous hose) or sprinkler. When watering to this depth, the application may last from 10 days to 2 weeks. Even during periods of dry weather, this should be sufficient. Clay soils require less frequent but heavier watering than sandy soils. Most of the soil in St. Tammany is sandy and with the added organic matter, 10 days to 2-week watering of established plants should be enough. If you plant your camellias in the summer months, a more frequent watering schedule must be done. If plants are planted from June to October, they will require watering as many as 2 times a week.
Pruning. Although camellias require very little pruning, some may be needed to keep certain varieties at the desired shape and size. Pruning inside limbs back to another branch or lateral will reduce the height and increase air movement without making the plant look unsightly. Prune plants early in the spring at the end of the dormant season. This is usually the last week in February or the first week in March. Remember, Spring comes early in St. Tammany. Cutting blooms with longer stems (4 to 6 inches) reduces the need for severe cutting or pruning.
DISEASES AND INSECTS
Disease and insects must be controlled to grow good camellias. Some pests attack the roots; others feed on leaves and stems or damage blooms. The most important step in the control of diseases and insects is to avoid them when possible. Buy well grown plants from a reputable nursery; inspect plants frequently for signs of disease, nematodes and insects; and before setting out new plants, treat the soil for nematodes.
Disease Control: Dieback may attack all above ground parts of the plant, causing it to suddenly wilt and die. The dieback fungus (Glomerella cingulata) enters the plant through leaf scars or wounds made by grafting, cultivating implements or insect feeding. The disease can be recognized by dead, sunken spots or cankers that generally occur at the base of wilted stems. As soon as noticed, cut the dying twigs off an inch below discolored wood or burn. Cankers involving only part of a large limb can be removed by cutting until healthy wood is visible. Cover the cut with water asphalt paint or a similar wound dressing. Spray thoroughly with Daconil, Polyram, Ferbam, Captan, Copper Sulfate or Bordeaux Mixture at 7 day intervals during leaf fall, and avoid the use of heavy applications of nitrogen to help control die-back. Proper timing of sprays will vary since leaf fall varies with varieties and infection occurs most easily in the fresh, unhealed leaf scars. Maintenance of adequate calcium and micronutrient levels makes the camellia more resistant to the disease.
CAMELLIA ROOT ROT affects the roots and base of stems, causing them to turn brown and rot. Infected plants show poor vigor, leaves turn yellow, and usually the entire plant wilts and dies. Root rot is caused by the soil fungus (Phytophthora cinnamomi). It infects many woody ornamentals, is present in most soils, and thrives in warm wet soils. Elimination of the fungus from affected plants is practically impossible. It should be avoided by using C. Sasanqua understock or a disease-free understock by sterilizing the soil, and by avoiding heavy or poorly drained soils. Sterilize the soil by using chemicals. The treatment kills all living organisms - weeds, nematodes, fungi and bacteria. Chemicals recommended for soil sterilization include methyl bromide gas, liquid Vapam and liquid formaldehyde (1 gallon of 37 percent in 50 gallons of water applied at a rate of 1/2 gallon of mixture per square foot). Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for use of these materials.
An application of lime or gypsum will help plants resist this disease. Do not apply lime or gypsum unless recommended by a soil test. Copper sulfate or Copper A, when used at the rate of 1 ounce per 7 to 14 square feet, will prevent Phytophthora root rot. The use of Dexon or Terrazole as soil drenches according to manufacturers' directions
NEMATODES, microscopic eel-like worms, cause severe root damage. The root knot nematode causes swollen areas or galls on the roots of infected plants. Other kinds of nematodes feed on the outside of the roots and prevent normal root development. Affected plants grow slowly and wilt readily in dry weather. Damage from nematodes can be largely avoided by buying non-infested plants in sterilized soil. If nematodes are a problem around established plants, treatment is necessary. Rake back the mulch and enough of the surface layer of soil to make a small ridge around an area 12 to 18 inches beyond the tips of the limbs. The ridge will hold a puddle of water which will soak the chemical into the root zone. Poke holes 8 to 10 inches deep with a small sharp steel rod or round stick, about 1/4 inch in diameter, every 10 to 12 inches within the circle. Mix 2 tablespoons of Nemagon emulsifiable concentrate or Fumazone 86 in a gallon of water and pour into the holes. One gallon of the mixture should drench 9 square feet. Then drench the entire area with water until it puddles and fills the ridged area. After the water soaks in, seal all holes to prevent rapid escape of the chemical fumes. Other materials with clearance labels for soil drenches are Dasanit, Mocap and VC-13. All should be applied according to manufacturers' directions.
TEA SCALE is the most damaging scale pest. A sure sign of this insect is yellow splotches on the upper side of leaves. When present in large numbers, the bottom side of the leaves will be covered with a cottony mass. The males have a soft, white waxy covering. Females are dark brown, oval and about 1/20 inch long. About 2 months are required for the complete life cycle, so there are several generations each year. Scale insects are the most important pests of camellias. They have sucking mouthparts and feed by piercing the epidermis of the twigs and foliage and sucking the plant juices. This stunts and weakens the plants, and scales hurt the plant's appearance. Several insecticides are effective against the insects that infest camel-has. Malathion 50 mixed at 1 tablespoon per gallon is very effective against most insects. Any good commercial insecticide will work on camellias. Read the label and use them as directed and you will have no problems. The important thing is to read the label and follow directions. Camellias are susceptible to the same pests as most woody ornamentals so any insecticide recommended
APHIDS or plant lice are small, soft-bodied insects which are usually found in colonies on the underside of new leaves and on tender stems. They may cause serious damage by sucking plant juices.
ANTS are frequently nuisance pests around camellias and occasionally damage small plants by building nests around their bases. Ants are fond of the honeydew excreted by some of the sucking insects such as aphids and scales, and they may introduce or spread these pests among plants.
Scale insects are the most important pests of camellias. They have sucking mouthparts and feed by piercing the epidermis of the twigs and foliage and sucking the plant juices. This stunts and weakens the plants, and scales hurt the plant's appearance. Several insecticides are effective against the insects that infest camel-has. Malathion 50 mixed at 1 tablespoon per gallon is very effective against most insects. Any good commercial insecticide will work on camellias. Read the label and use them as directed and you will have no problems. The important thing is to read the label and follow directions. Camellias are susceptible to the same pests as most woody ornamentals so any insecticide recommended