A Calendar for Camellia Lovers
Southern California Camellia Society
The Camellia Review, Vol. 64, #3
January–February 2003
Reprinted with Permission
Camellia lovers and Southern California gardeners tend to their plants twelve months of the year. This article will discuss key issues and what to do each month. (Note: Although this article focuses on California, it is still usefull for all Camellia Regions, just adjust to your climate differences. Editor)
January
The first month of the year is the beginning of the major blooming season for camellia Japonicas. Each day we are treated to surprises as new blooms open up! Most of these are the early Japonicas or late blooming species. Sasanquas such as 'Yuletide' or Vernalis such as 'Egao' or 'Star Above Star' are examples of late blooming species. 'Debutante', 'Wildfire' and 'Tama-no-ura' are typical early Japonicas.
January To-Do List
During this month camellias may be fertilized with a low nitrogen product such as Grow Power (2-10-10) or 0-10-10 or 3-10-10 to produce show quality blooms. The key is the first number—nitrogen. It must be no greater than 3 or new growth may occur. Warm weather and larger amounts of nitrogen may force the plant out of dormancy. When camel
lias are in bloom they are dormant, just the opposite of many other plants.
Adequate water is needed this month. You may need to do supplementary watering if rain is light. Since the camellia flower is about 90% water, a deficient supply causes blooms and buds to dry out, fall off or be undersized. The key is to keep the soil moist at all times but not wet and soggy. Warm and dry winds especially will dry out pots, so check your plants regularly and water as needed.
Pick blooms to enjoy in your home — camellia flowers look lovely floating in a bowl or vase. Hybridizing or grafting may begin this month for the experienced gardener; it takes about seven years from seed to produce a flowering plant. The ACS Camellia Yearbook is an excellent resource. Participate in one of the many camellia shows in Southern California — it's free, it's fun, and it's the best place to see the widest range of varieties. Make a list of what you want to grow and take it to Nuccio's Nursery — and don't forget your checkbook!
February
Japonicas and reticulatas are in full bloom this month — generally the midseason varieties. A key issue this month is local weather. Rain is welcomed in Southern California and is essential for healthy plants and blooms, though heavy rain may damage flowers. If you disbud and leave buds which hang downward, there is less rain damage than if the bloom faces up. The high winds called the "Santa Anas" are frequently a problem this time of year. There is nothing to do during a windstorm, but when landscaping consider placing your plants where there are windbreaks such as large trees, fences and buildings. If you have large trees on your property, prune them to let air circulate.
February To-Do List
Supplement rain with additional water depending on your local conditions. The key is MOIST, NOT WET. Enjoy your blooms by picking them for your home or showing them at one of the weekly scheduled camellia shows.
Hybridizing continues this month. Grafting begins in Southern California when it is dry — an excellent propagation method. Scions from new and better show camellias are readily available from Society members. Spent blooms need to be picked up and disposed of to control petal blight, which causes brown spots on flowers.
March
Late blooming japonicas and reticulatas continue to flower in March. As the weather becomes warmer, most camellias in Southern California will finish blooming this month.
March To-Do List
Pick blooms to enjoy in your home — especially striking are the large reticulatas such as 'Harold L. Paige'. Water camellias as needed to keep them MOIST NOT WET. Continue to pick up all camellia blooms to help control petal blight. Do not use camellia flowers in your mulch as this may proliferate the sclerotium that produces the spores which cause petal blight.
Late March, usually around St. Patrick's Day, some camellias begin to "feather out" — new leaves are developing, signaling the plant is breaking out of dormancy and entering the growth season. When feathering occurs it is time for the initial fertilization boost. One excellent option is fish emulsion (5-1-1), a liquid fertilizer mixed with water and applied around the base of the plant. Miracid (30-10-10) can also be used in its place, but use it at half strength due to its very high nitrogen content — too much fertilizer is always a danger.
April
In Southern California the rainy season is over, days are long and warm — an ideal time to be out in your garden and tackle the projects you have been putting off.
April To-Do List
First on the agenda is fertilizing, especially if you didn't begin in late March. After the initial boost, initiate a regular feeding plan. An excellent program is 5 parts cottonseed, 1 part iron and 1 part blood meal every 45 days — a formula advocated and taught by Sergio and Elsie Bracci to Southern California growers for years. Local nurseries also sell azalea and camellia fertilizers. Fertilization continues through early July, but avoid high nitrogen fertilizers when the weather gets hot in August and September, especially if your plants are not well established.
Pruning is done this month as well as in May and June. Remove dead wood and branches that cross each other and stems that fill up the middle of the plant — when pruning is complete the plant should look balanced and open in the center. Water as needed to maintain a MOIST NOT WET soil mix.
This four-month period is the most exciting for the camellia grower in Southern California. Spring has arrived, the birds are singing, the winds are warm and sweet. It just doesn't get any better than this!
May
Camellia foliage is rich and green and new growth of 6 to 8 inches may be apparent.
May To-Do List
Adequate water is needed to sustain new growth. Generally there is little to no rain in Southern California at this time of year, so keep your plants moist but not wet. Mid-May is the optimal time for the second fertilizer application: 5 parts cottonseed, 1 part iron and 1 part blood meal. Be sure not to over-fertilize and treat non-reticulata hybrids very lightly. Never feed a dry camellia.
A garden clean-up is recommended during May. Remove weeds, unwanted leaves and other debris. Any leftover camellia blooms should be removed to prevent the spread of petal blight.
June
Through most of June there may be cloud cover due to a low marine layer — the sun can emerge from under the "June gloom" anytime from sunrise to late afternoon, but even with all the clouds there is rarely any rain.
June To-Do List
Continue to water regularly as needed for your location. Remember the camellia gardener's mantra — MOIST NOT WET!
This is an excellent time to amend your soil and put down mulch. Peat moss is readily available but home-produced compost is even better. Bagged oak leaf mold is a personal favorite. Fir or pine bark is also used for camellia mulch to reduce evaporation of moisture during the summer months and help control weed growth. Do not cultivate or dig the mulch in as this disturbs the root system — camellias have extensive surface roots that need to be protected.
July
This month begins the summer season, which at times can bring very high dry temperatures to Southern California.
July To-Do List
Water is a must during this season. A systematic "deep" watering is preferable to frequent "light" watering. The frequency depends on weather, soil composition, plant location and the amount of mulch protecting the root system — the key is to keep the soil moist but not wet. If your camellias are in pots, water each plant until water runs out the weep holes at the bottom. Moisture depth can be checked by pushing a dry stake into the ground; moist soil will cling to it when withdrawn. Lawn sprinklers are generally set for shallow, frequent watering and are not adequate for camellias. Water less frequently but more deeply.
Continue the fertilization program outlined above. For most growers this is the last summer fertilization due to increasingly hot temperatures. If the weather is above 85°, consider eliminating the blood meal from the mix, especially for plants less than 15 years old. Non-reticulata hybrids are the most susceptible to over-fertilization and should receive reduced amounts.
August
At times August is hot, dry and smoggy in Southern California, and all of these conditions can be hard on camellias. We can't control the weather, but good culture can help improve their lot!
August To-Do List
Regular deep watering is a must. Camellias continue to need moist, not wet, soil conditions for optimal growth. In addition, camellias benefit greatly when their foliage is sprinkled with water in the late afternoon or early evening when temperatures remain above 85°. This supplementary watering provides humidity as well as the moisture needed to sustain robust growth.
September
This is the month for camellia species — Sasanqua and Hiemalis. These sun-loving camellias begin to bloom starting in September, typically producing a profusion of single flowers. The small green leaves make for excellent landscape plants in sun or partial sun. Some examples of lovely early blooming Sasanquas are 'Bonanza', 'Dazzler', 'Hugh Evans' and 'Showa-no-Sake'.
September To-Do List
Proper watering continues to be very important. While there are no direct rules as to frequency due to various weather conditions, plant location or soil types, the general principle is never to allow a camellia to completely dry out. In Southern California, foliage spraying late in the afternoon is greatly appreciated by camellias especially when temperatures go above 85°. This added water increases moisture and helps clean foliage of dirt and smog films that can build up on the leaves. Water when sprayed also knocks off white flies, aphids and spider mites that are frequent hot weather pests.
While insects do not generally bother camellias, spider mites are a notable exception. If a well-watered camellia has had a good foliage spray but continues to have dusky brown color on the underside of the leaves, spider mites are probably the cause. A light summer oil spray should be applied on camellias not in bloom — the oil will spoil any open flower's beauty. A number of products are available which, when applied as the manufacturer recommends, will smother larvae and eggs. A second and even possible third application, applied every 10 days, may be needed to control spider mites.
October
Some of the loveliest Sasanquas are lightening up the landscape with their profusion of blooms this month! 'Apple Blossom', 'Double Rainbow' and 'Dwarf Shishi' are examples that come to mind. Many camellia fanciers follow the Asian practice of leaving the petals where they fall on the ground, making for a lovely carpet of kaleidoscopic-colored petals surrounding the plant. This practice for Sasanquas provides no danger that petals will develop Sclerotium to cause petal blight later in the season.
October To-Do List
The need to water camellias as required by your local weather conditions continues. Remember the mantra "moist not wet" for optimal culture.
Begin the dormant season fertilization this month after the heat of August and September has passed. Other growers will begin in late August or September — the key is the weather. If it is hot (over 85°), especially with camellias planted less than 15 years old, grave problems can develop. A low nitrogen product such as Grow Power (2-10-10) is recommended. There are other good products that are 0-10-10 or 3-10-10. The first number represents the nitrogen content, which needs to be less than 3%. Nitrogen is used for synthesis of protein compounds and promotes leaf and stem development. The second number stands for Phosphorus, which promotes the development of roots, flowers and seeds — 10% is optimal. Potassium is the third number, also used at 10%, and helps increase the water content of cells, thereby enhancing resistance to drought and some plant diseases.
In summary, 2-10-10 (N-P-K) formulas are good dormant fertilizers as they promote flowering and don't stimulate leaf and shoot development while the camellia plant is in its dormant phase. The conventional wisdom is that some 1, 2 or 3% nitrogen is preferable to no nitrogen content.
Fall pruning can be done during this month. Pruning either in fall or spring will help improve blooms and enhance a healthy, well-groomed plant in the landscape. Prune out all dead wood and weak growth. Low growing branches can be removed. All branches that cross inside the plant need to be removed to allow light and air to pass throughout the plant. Always make a clean, smooth cut back toward a healthy growth bud. New growth can be directed by choosing the bud pointing in the desired direction, which normally is away from the trunk. Never leave crushed leaves or damaged stems or bark. Special consideration is needed in pruning members of the Elegans family — it is recommended to leave the main stem (trunk) of any Elegans until the plant has reached its desired height, otherwise growth is exclusively lateral. Reticulatas are less forgiving than Japonicas and it is best to cut back to a well-developed growth bud, especially in young plants.
In Southern California, high winds can be expected in the fall especially during the winter months. These winds can do considerable damage to both large and small trees. Periodic pruning of large landscape trees is necessary, and if your camellias are growing under larger trees even more care is required.
November
Hiemalis and Sasanqua camellias are reaching peak bloom this month in Southern California. They are outstanding landscape plants that enjoy more sun than Japonicas. Some of the favorites are 'Jean May', 'Kanjiro', 'Rainbow' and 'Shishi-Gashira'.
November To-Do List
Regular deep watering that provides a moist but not wet soil continues to be needed when little or no rain is expected. Camellias are slow-growing hardy shrubs — small trees that are acid loving plants. The dormant season fertilization program discussed for October continues this month at intervals of 45 days. While a 2-10-10 fertilizer is recommended, if you have a product you like that has a nitrogen level over 3%, reduce the amount of fertilizer applied to the plant. For example, for a 6-10-10 mixture reduce by half to its equivalent 3-5-5. Three additional recommendations: first, never fertilize a dry plant. Second, use less (one-half) the recommended amount on non-reticulata hybrids. Finally, remember that less is better than to over-fertilize.
After pruning, camellias get more light and sunshine as the fall days get shorter, which helps bud set and flower development. This time is prior to the traditional windstorms and better for your budget with the upcoming holiday expenses!
December
The very best species, Vernalis, now begin blooming this month. They are wonderful landscape plants and frequent show winners in the "species" class. The local favorites year in and year out are 'Egao', 'Shibari-Egao', 'Grady's Egao' and 'Star Above Star'. In addition, the late blooming Sasanquas 'Bert Jones' and 'Yuletide' are peaking during this month — some Sasanquas such as 'Bert Jones' are very fragrant, a quality most camellias lack. Finally, do not overlook the early blooming Japonicas making their appearance this season: 'Debutante', 'San Dimas', 'Moonlight Bay', 'Wildfire' and 'Tama-No-Ura' are wonderful this time of year.
December To-Do List
Regular deep watering continues to be of the utmost importance to keep buds and flowers at their very best. Recall that flowers are 90% water and buds are the first part of a camellia to dry up when watering is inadequate. December is not generally considered to be part of the rainy season in Southern California.
The use of low nitrogen (2-10-10) fertilizer every 45 days continues for growers looking to produce flower show winners. When rain is predicted it is a great opportunity to spread fertilizer on plants ahead of the storm and let Mother Nature water it in.
Disbudding begins this month to obtain better and larger flowers. Leaf buds are not touched and can be easily distinguished from flower buds in most varieties. Terminal buds are thinned to one, selected so it is not crowded by adjoining leaves. If possible, leave the bud so the bloom will face downward, allowing water to drain off and not damage the flower. Buds along the stem may all be removed, or spaced 4 to 5 inches apart. This helps produce show quality flowers while still leaving many blooms to enjoy. It is common practice to disbud only Japonicas, Reticulatas and Non-reticulata hybrids — if your purpose is primarily landscaping value, disbudding is not necessary.
Gibbing is generally done at this time to produce flowers for shows scheduled in the next 30 to 90 days. If you want flowers for Christmas, gibbing must begin in November.
Questions and Answers
What is gibbing? It is the practice of applying gibberellic acid, a naturally occurring plant hormone. Why do people gib? It increases the size of blooms and produces earlier blooms — at times it may even enhance color and change flower shape. How is gibbing done? The vegetative bud next to the flower bud to be gibbed is pinched off, leaving a small cup. A drop of gibberellic acid is placed into the cup, or on the wound if a cup was not formed. An eyedropper works well for placing the solution. Where can you get gibberellic acid? Contact the American Camellia Society, 100 Massee Lane, Fort Valley, GA 31030.
How do you make a liquid solution from 1 gram of powdered gibberellic acid? Mix it with 2 ounces of distilled water and add a few drops of clear ammonia to get it into solution.
How many buds can be gibbed? Leave at least 80% of the buds untreated per plant. A few on a plant each week for three to five weeks spreads out the production of early blooms. Most Japonicas, Reticulatas and Non-reticulata hybrids respond favorably to gibbing. Favorites that gibbing really improves include 'Royal Velvet', 'Herme', 'Magnoliaeflora', 'Grand Prix', 'Clark Hubbs', 'Maroon and Gold' and members of the Elegans family. Reticulatas tend to bloom late in the season, so gibbing is especially valuable for exhibitors wanting to show them in January. 'Harold L. Paige', 'Dr. Clifford Parks', 'Linda Carroll', 'LASCA Beauty', 'W.P. Gilley' and 'Larry Piet' respond particularly well.
Conclusion
The life cycle of the camellia has been outlined over a twelve-month period to give the novice as well as the more advanced camellia grower an overview of camellia culture. It provides a timetable for what to do and when. But why go to all this effort to make camellias produce such beautiful blossoms? In the words of my young grandchildren — "It's the funnest thing to do!"