Planting Camellias in Sandy Coastal Soils
American Camellia Society
ACS Camellia Yearbook
1947
Reprinted with Permission
During the past twelve or fifteen years quite a large number of camellias have been planted in the gardens of this area, and we now are finding that too high a percentage of them have not done well.
In examining these plants, we have found one condition that has caused more trouble than any other, and that is that the plants are too deep.
It is our belief that the majority of these plants were originally set at the proper level, but have subsequently sunk to a damaging extent. As an example, the writer examined one plant that was not doing well, and found the top of the original ball 13 inches below the level of the surrounding ground. This plant had been set a number of years ago in a deep hole that had been filled in with leaves, leaf mold, and finely ground humus.
Much of the soil in this area is Norfolk fine sand, and in the past it has been recommended that a hole be dug twice the depth of the plant ball and that this hole be filled with humus, such as leaf mold, peat humus or fresh-water muck. This material compacts and also disintegrates, allowing the plant to settle.
It is quite true that the addition of humus to our soil is beneficial, but we are now urging that the ball of the
plant be set on solid, firm natural soil, in such a manner that the top of the ball will be slightly above the level of the surrounding ground. In our planting we dig a hole at least three times the width of the ball and slightly less in depth than the plant ball. We then dig quite deeply around the circumference of the hole, leaving a mound in the center for the plant ball to rest on.
The topsoil from the hole is kept to one side and mixed approximately 50–50 with peat humus. We consider it desirable to add sheep manure to this mixture and also recommend the addition of a limited amount of Azalea and Camellia Special fertilizer. There is a very favorable response to the fertilizer when it is mixed with the soil that is packed around the plant ball.
Mulching
In addition to the use of humus, leaves, etc., under the ball of newly set plants, we believe that we have, in this area, been overdoing the use of leaf and pine straw mulch. Many plants have had so deep a mulch applied that they have, in effect, been set too deep. The constant application of leaves to a depth of several inches has the same effect as deep planting. The plant attempts to build a new set of roots in the mulch, which seems to definitely retard the plant’s natural healthy growth.
We recommend a thin mulch—not over an inch or so. This thin mulch will assist in maintaining an even moisture content in the soil and will keep our sandy soil from heating up too much. It will be particularly valuable during the first summer after transplanting, but our aim should be to have the plant develop a root system that reaches outward and downward into soil that is congenial with respect to moisture and temperature.
Watering
Of course, small young plants will have to be watered frequently, because the root system is close to the surface, but we should aim to encourage the plants to accommodate themselves to the soil in which they grow, so that they will not suffer during dry periods when the owner is away and watering is overlooked. In other words, we should not water our plants so frequently that the soil is kept full of water; if we do, the plant will make a root system that is too close to the surface, sooner or later watering will be neglected, and the plant will suffer.
Drainage
The foregoing has particular reference to that type of soil commonly known as hammock land in this area, where the sand is quite deep and the water level is several feet below the surface. Another type of soil is quite prevalent, and causes considerable difficulty with camellias. This is the so-called “flatwoods” soil, consisting of sand with an underlying layer of hardpan. This hardpan is almost a perfect barrier to the movement of water, and in rainy season the ground above the hardpan remains thoroughly saturated for days or even weeks. Such a condition is extremely damaging to camellias. Some varieties, notably Pink Perfection and Alba Plena, are more quickly damaged than others. In dry weather, moisture from below the hardpan does not readily move upward, and the soil dries out to excess.
Where there is enough slope to your ground or where there are nearby drainage ditches or sewers, you can provide adequate drainage by ditching to a depth of about 18 inches on both sides of your bed, but you should not depend on these ditches taking care of land more than 6 or 7 feet away. This would mean that the bed should not be more than 12 or 14 feet wide.
In many cases, to establish good drainage, it will be more practical and satisfactory, as well as more attractive, to create raised beds, using brick or concrete block for a retaining wall. This wall should be at least 10 or 12 inches high in a location that is inclined to be soggy in wet weather, and the area should be filled in with a mixture of good topsoil, leaf mold, and peat humus.
Many persons say to us that “water doesn’t stand in my yard,” when they really mean that it doesn’t stand on their yard. We recommend that in the rainy season a small hole be dug to see just where the water level is, after rain for several days or a week or so. If you find that the hole fills to within a foot of the surface for more than a few hours, you will know that you will have to improve the drainage by ditching or bedding up to grow camellias successfully. It will be some trouble and expense, but you will be repaid by having your plants thrive rather than go backward.