at for camellias.

Trees, such as pines, that offer filtered light provide an excellent site. Partial shade, west or northwest side of a building, or under a group of trees that receive filtered light all day, are suitable sites. Camellias cannot tolerate poorly drained soils or extremely dry locations. Avoid planting in low areas where water collects or dry areas such as hill crests or rocky ridges.

The Raleigh area is blessed with clay soils. Camellias need amending with organic matter and good drainage to thrive in clay soil. Mixing organic matter with our soil is beneficial in many ways: (a) it retains moisture and improves drainage, therefore avoiding fluctuations in soil moisture, (b) it improves aeration and keeps the soil loose, (c) as it decomposes, it adds nutrients and acids to the soil. Finely ground pine bark and compost are excellent products for clay soils. Peat moss works well in sandier soils.

Camellias can be divided into two classifications – Camellia sasanqua and Camellia japonica. They both offer a number of varieties and bloom colors. Sasanquas bloom in the fall (October–December) while japonicas bloom from December through April. Japonicas generally grow larger (6'–12') than sasanquas. They also have larger blooms and foliage. Japonicas grow into specimen plants that are often planted as a screen, informal hedge, or mixed with other shrubs. Because their culture is similar, they go well with azaleas.

Sasanquas have smaller leaves and blooms than japonicas. They overcome the smaller size by producing a greater quantity of blooms. Hedges and screens (both formal and informal) are good uses for sasanquas. They also blend well with other shrubs. Sasanquas can easily be trained (espaliered) to grow against a wall.

There are a few other camellia types that have become more available recently. Cold hardy camellias (C. oleifera and sasanqua hybrids) are much more resistant to cold temperatures, even as low as 0–10 degrees F. Also, the old-fashioned tea camellia, Camellia sinensis, is an interesting addition. Its leaves are used to make tea that you might drink.

Planting Camellias

Use the standard hole method for camellias, planting at the same depth as the plant grew in the nursery. Use the "mound method" for all plants if the soil stays constantly damp, if the soil is heavy clay, or if it is a plant that needs extra good drainage. Use the raised planting method especially for the following plants, as perfect soil drainage is critical to their survival: camellias, azaleas, rhododendrons, aucubas, pieris, dogwoods, cherries and many others.

1. Plants with a dirt root ball need special care. Take special care not to loosen the soil in the ball. They should be placed in the hole with the original cloth burlap intact. If the ball has been re-wrapped with burlap, remove the outer burlap first unless it is holding the ball together. Fill the bottom half of the hole around the root ball with soil, tamp it firm to keep the root ball firm, and then remove the upper half of the burlap so water can soak into the root ball better, then finish covering the rest of the root ball. If the burlap appears to be synthetic instead of common jute, try to remove the sides and top pieces and leave the bottom intact so as not to disturb the root ball. Cut away any string around the trunk or the root ball and any plant tags.
2. You should bareroot plants that arrive wrapped in burlap and sawdust, or burlap and peat moss. These plants should be planted immediately. Unwrap them, discard the packing materials, and spread out the roots before covering them with soil.
3. Occasionally plants grown in pots become "pot bound," resulting in a thick mass of roots. The roots of such plants must be loosened so they will resume their normal growth pattern instead of continuing to grow in a tight circular mass. Usually 5–6 vertical slices about 1/2 inch deep on the sides and bottom of the root ball are sufficient to free the roots. Failure to perform this operation can result in the plant not taking root properly and dying from dryness.
4. The hole should be 6″–8″ wider than the root ball on all sides, and 3″–4″ deeper. The best backfill for the hole is existing soil mixed with 1/3 to 1/2 organic material (fine ground pine bark, coarse compost, woods humus, etc.). If you have heavy clay or very damp soils, use 1/2 fine pine bark mixed with existing soil and plant mounded.
5. When planting, add bone meal or superphosphate to help establish better root growth on your new camellias. This also increases blooms of all flowering plants.
6. Fill the hole with soil mix even with the top surface of the root ball. Do not cover the root ball with excess soil, as this can suffocate the plant roots. Also, do not cover the graft of grafted trees (the knot near the base of the trunk) – it is all right for this to be exposed. Most important: tamp soil lightly with hands or feet after covering with soil and settle with water afterwards. Soak slowly to wet the entire planted area.
7. Mulch all plants with material of your choice. 3″–4″ of pine straw is excellent. Pine bark is also suitable, about 1″–2″ deep if the site is level and the bark will not wash away.
8. Brace bareroot or tall trees with two tall stakes (4') or three short stakes and guy wires or ropes using loose loops around the trunk. Use wide straps for attachment at the trunk, or loop the wires or ropes through old sections of hose so they will not cut the tree. Guy wires should be a little loose so the tree can move several inches either way to stiffen up its root system in the soil. Remove this after about one year.